Polruan Cornwall | Ferry, Castle, Harbour & Beach

Polruan is an old fishing village in Cornwall that is often overlooked by visitors heading straight to Fowey. The village is a brilliant point to see Fowey in all its glory, with magnificent views over the river and a few things to do. The principal attractions of the town are Polruan Castle, the harbour and wonderful hiking trails.

Water surrounds Polruan on three sides: the English Channel, River Fowey and Pont Creek. This adds to its beauty and splendid views.

Getting to Polruan in Cornwall

If travelling from the east, arriving by car is possible via some very narrow and sometimes busy country lanes. This route passes Polperro and the stunning Lantic Bay and Lansallos Bay, both of which have car parks for enjoying the beaches and the local coast. Parking is challenging here due to narrow, steep streets.

Arriving by ferry from Fowey is possibly the easiest way. The ferry runs frequently across the water, and in my experience there were no issues with the dog. The ferry ride takes you over the river, offering fantastic views of the town, village, and the many boats moored here.

For hikers, Polruan is on the South-West Coast Path, a beautiful section from Looe with rugged coastline, bays and coves to explore. It’s pretty steep when leaving the village along the coast, so your blood will get pumping straight away.

I arrived on public transport. This requires some military precision because it’s quite infrequent. The 481 bus services this route; this starts at Looe, via Polperro and Lansallos, a great ride to see the local countryside and coast.

Polruan Castle

We originally visited the village to reach Fowey, as the journey was quicker by public transport. I noticed Polruan Castle on the map, so I needed to check this out. The “castle” is a short walk from the bus stop and the pier where the passenger ferry departs.

From the bus stop, you head on West Street past the Russell Inn via some narrow roads and lanes to reach the castle, a simple route and not far at all. The short walk has some amazing views across the river and passes many quaint houses.

It is free to enter and consists of the ruins of a 14th-century blockhouse, primarily built to defend the harbour. They connected this blockhouse to one opposite with a chain. They raised the chain when under threat from unknown ships to prevent them from entering the river.

The castle’s history begins after the 100 Years’ War, when there was fear of a French attack. The castle was also subsequently important during the English Civil War.

The current buildings no longer have a roof or a chain, but the holes for guns used in the defences offer magnificent sea views. The bottom entrance leads out onto an outcrop with fantastic views of the port and the opposite coastline.

Polruan Harbour

The seafront and harbour at Polruan are nice places to sit and watch the world go by. The ferry to Fowey departs from here, so it is a focal point for many visitors. Polruan Harbour has shipyards fixing boats and fishing boats doing their thing.

Leisure boats are popular here, and there are many jetties with many private boats moored upon them. The village is popular with those that enjoy watersports, it seems. This is great to watch from a bench on the harbour wall.

Polruan Beach

There is also a small beach that people used to launch dinghies and SUPs/stand-up paddleboards. Swimmers also enter the estuary here, or some braver ones jump from the harbour wall, not permitted according to signs, but it happens and looks fun. Dogs are not allowed on Polruan Quay Beach, so we stuck to the harbour, lanes and ferry with Henry.

Ferry Across The River

My primary reason for being here was to catch the ferry across the river to enjoy a day out visiting Fowey. The ferry leaves from steps on the main harbour wall frequently throughout the day. The landing point opposite changes in the evening, so it’s best to ask the driver where to catch the return ferry from.

The ferry costs £3.50 each way for adults, £1.60 for children, and £0.50 for dogs. He will need a job soon if he wants these luxuries. This ferry trip is short and direct across the river. You can pay by card or cash on board; the conductor collects payments during the crossing.

The journey takes you across the River Fowey. This has so many stunning views of the coast, the river, and the port. A thoroughly enjoyable experience that I am glad I did four crossings on my recent South East Cornwall adventure.

Pubs and Restaurants

The nearest pub to the bus stop was The Russell Inn, a cosy, dog-friendly pub with a friendly vibe, in my experience. They had outside seating where you can see the bus stop, an ideal place to sit and wait for buses to arrive or just enjoy a drink. The usual suspects were on tap on a hot day: Korev Cornish lager was ideal. The food menu included local fish and chips, burgers, whitebait and other pub grub.

The Lugger Inn is in the main harbour, near the jetty where you catch the ferry. This is a friendly pub that serves great food, including many taco options. I didn’t end up eating out in Polruan because the great food shops in Fowey gave me plenty of barbecue options when we got back to the campsite.

Village Shops

The village has a few shops for essentials, but most people rely on the ferry to get supplies from the larger town of Fowey. I popped into the simply named Polruan Stores for a drink on arrival and to get the dog some breakfast. The shop was small with some nice-looking supplies, but I was not looking to buy much today.

Sadly, my key priority of vape juice was not stocked, despite Google Maps suggesting I visit. Further towards the harbour is the post office. This also sold drinks, some basic foods, and tourist trinkets.

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Where To Stay?

We didn’t stay in Polruan on our visit to Cornwall, as it’s tricky to reach by public transport. However, there are many options for places to stay in the village. Most of the accommodation is self-catering holiday homes and apartments. Some of these are dog-friendly. The best way to find where to stay and check availability is on the Booking.com website.

Is Polruan Worth Visiting?

I’m glad I visited Polruan for a few hours for a mooch around. Polruan Castle and harbour were great to see. We found the pubs to be pleasant and dog-friendly, which was perfect for us. Hiking in the area is great, and as a bonus, you have Fowey’s attractions nearby. If on holiday here, you might need your own transport or stay close to where you are staying.