Tsarevets Fortress & Patriarchal Cathedral in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

One of the best tourist attractions in Veliko Tarnovo is Tsarevets Fortress, a massive castle-like place to explore. It is also home to the iconic Patriarchal Cathedral, a fantastic place to visit.

When visiting Tsarevets Fortress, you get to see the fortification, the Patriarchal Cathedral, various towers and some other buildings. The views from the fortifications are top-drawer too and great for photographs. The grounds inside are pleasant, especially the beautiful meadows.

Tsarevets Fortress History

The fortification was the Second Bulgarian Empire’s primary fortress and its strongest bulwark between 1185 and 1393. During those times, it housed the royal and patriarchal palaces. It was often compared with Rome and Constantinople in its splendour.

In 1393, the Ottoman Empire besieged it for 3 months and finally conquered the Bulgarian Empire. They started restoring the fortress in 1930 and then completed it in 1981 to honour Bulgaria’s 1300th birthday.

What To See at Tsarevets Fortress

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There are many features to see when visiting Tsarevets Fortress, a fantastic place in Bulgaria. I enjoyed browsing the site at my pace; however, you can book guided tours.

There are some handy maps to help you navigate the site. However, it is easy to navigate and to find all the key features.

Drawbridge

The drawbridge no longer exists; however, there is a cobbled walkway that serves as the entrance to the fortress. It was my preferred spot to watch the sunrise and see the fortress lit up at night.

Just down the road, you can see the gap in the rocks where the drawbridge used to be.

Main Gate

The cobbled path from the ticket office takes you towards the main gate and an inner gate, which is rather nice to see. It is the most impressive of the three gates of the site.

Thick walls surround the whole fortress, reaching up to 3.6 metres deep. They used to enter Tsarevets Fortress via one of three gates. The main gate was at the hill’s westernmost point. The others are further along the fortification walls.

Patriarchs Cathedral – Ascension Cathedral

Ascension Cathedral, AKA The Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension of the Lord, is a lovely place to see. It is a cathedral on the highest point of the hill inside Tsarevets Fortress. There have been churches on the site for centuries, the first dating back to the 5th-6th centuries. They started the current building in the late 11th century, which the Ottomans destroyed during the siege of Tarnovo in 1393. They restored it in the 20th century along with the rest of the site.

One of the fun aspects of travelling with little planning is that you get a pleasant surprise at certain places. When visiting Ascension Cathedral in the fortress, the decor inside pleasantly surprised me. The walls were like nothing I had ever seen before.

Basically, the walls inside the church depict the most important moments in the history of Bulgaria. There are murals painted in a modernist style, and because of this, the church has never been reconsecrated. The inside of the church is a fantastic work of art and well worth the climb to the top of the fortress. Every wall and ceiling has something to see.

Baldwin’s Tower

At the southeast end of the complex, away from the central features, is Baldwin’s Tower. It offers scenic views. You can also see the Mini-Bulgaria Park from above. There are wooden steps to climb the various levels of Baldwin’s Tower.

The medieval tower guarded the Frenkhisar Gate and a water reservoir, and it was also the south entrance to the complex. Apparently, Latin Emperor Baldwin died here after Tsar Kaloyan of the Second Bulgarian Empire captured him. Because of this, the current tower is named Baldwin’s Tower.

Royal Palace

The ruins of the Royal Palace are easy to find, as they have a big Bulgarian flag nearby. You can visit inside the ruins and reach the top for a view of the cathedral and nearby countryside.

Inside, you can see many of the palace’s features, including medieval windows and arrow slats. They currently have scaffolding, and the way out reminded me of the Silent Hill video game.

Another nice feature I enjoyed was the artist’s impression of what the palace would have looked like back in the day.

Tower at the Little Gate

Another defensive tower is next to the Little Gate, which is locked nowadays. However, you can climb the various floors of the tower, which is a popular spot for visitors taking photos. The walk from the main gate along the battlements to this tower is fantastic.

Inside the tower are three floors, all with views of the fortress and the neighbouring hill. First, you climb the outside steps to the first floor. Inside the first floor is a crossbow pointing towards an arrow slot.

Next up was a torture room, complete with a block and axe for head-chopping. This was interactive and very popular with people taking photos before meeting their maker.

Fortress Wall Walk

The walk between the Tower at Little Gate and the Rock of Execution is stunning. There are wildflower meadows, blossoming trees, and wildlife, including lots of lizards. You can also enjoy some quiet time here, as it was the quietest part of the fortress.

There are other ruins to see while wandering this way and some shaded areas to sit and let your mind wander. The views towards the other fortress in Veliko Tarnovo, Trapezitsa Fortress, are wonderful here too.

Rock of Execution

The Rock of Execution is a fascinating and beautiful place to visit while at the fortress. In front of the rock is the ruin of a church with some interesting flooring.

Behind the ruins of the church, there is the rock that they used for executions. Execution Rock is basically an outcrop over the Yantra River below, where they pushed traitors to their deaths and their bodies fell into the river. Apparently Patriarch Joachim was executed by Tsar Theodore Svetoslav in the year 1300.

Nowadays, the rock is just there with a few brave souls wandering out to the edge for a look down. Others seemed to pose for photos of the outcrop. I just sat and enjoyed people-watching.

The Light Show

The fortress also does a light show with music and church bells. I imagine something similar to the light show at Rouen Cathedral but bigger. Unfortunately, our dates didn’t match, so we didn’t see it. The photos and YouTube videos of the spectacle look great, though. To avoid my mistake, you can find out the dates and get tickets on their website.

Views of The Town

As the fortress is on a hill, there are many opportunities for views of the town and the nearby countryside. I enjoyed lots of the views while walking around various parts of the fortifications. There were also places to sit and take it all in while enjoying a cold drink.

Visitor Tips for Tsarevets Fortress

Tickets

You can pay either cash or card at the ticket office near the entrance. This includes visiting the entire fortress and the Patriarchal Cathedral. There are discounts available, including for children and family groups. You can also arrange a guided tour of the site in either Bulgarian or other languages. To find out more about visiting costs and hours, see their website.

Finding The Fortress

Tsarevets Fortress is a short walk from the central area of Veliko Tarnovo or a short bus ride on the number 5 bus from the railway station. Other buses travel nearby; for this, I recommend downloading the Moovit app.

Refreshments

There are no bars or cafes inside the fortress, unfortunately. However, they have vending machines in an area just below the cathedral. They have a variety of snacks and drinks available. Next to the machines is an area with seats in the shade to cool down. Just outside, the entrance is The Green Restaurant, which serves local beer and refreshing lemonade. Their food is delicious, especially the pork stew.

Is It Dog Friendly?

Many of the other visitors had brought their dog for a walk in Tsarevets Fortress. During my visit, I was alone, so Henry kept my wife company and didn’t get to see the sights. I’d say to take your own water, as I saw nowhere for dogs to drink, and it gets hot on the grounds even in early spring.

Watch Sunrise

The area just outside the fortresses is my favourite spot to be during the sunrise. The medieval architecture, cobbled walkway and red skies are a fantastic combination. Because of the hilly nature of the area near Tsarevets Fortress, the sunrise is later than advertised. It is one of many great places to watch the sunrise. Bulgaria.

Is Tsarevets Fortress Worth Visiting?

Visiting Tsarevets Fortress is a must-do activity when in Veliko Tarnovo. The medieval history is fascinating, and there are lots of things to see. The views from the site are also splendid. Entry to the attraction was reasonably priced, too.