Train Travel, Railway Journeys & Night Trains in Romania

Romania is a lovely country with many interesting places to visit on the train network. Trains crisscross the country, often rather slowly; however, the views are fantastic. Using the railway is my favourite form of travel throughout Europe, and Romania is no different.

The main train company in Romania is CFR Calatori. Most of the trains are pretty old; I prefer these, as the seats seem to be bigger than modern trains. Depending on the train’s route, there are open-plan carriages, 6-person couchettes and restaurant cars. On many trains, there is the option for 1st or 2nd class tickets, unless you travel with a dog; then you are confined to 2^nd class.

Booking Train Tickets in Romania

There are various ways to book trains in Romania, including online or in person at the railway stations. The CFR Calatori website is the best option for booking online and is pretty straightforward, especially for daytime trains. If booking a night train, many of the conductors want a paper copy for some reason. Thus, I prefer to get these at the station unless I have access to a printer to make things run smoothly.

At the train station, there are ticket machines which are pretty straightforward to use. These are in Romanian and English and accept cards for payments. This involves selecting destinations, then times, then choosing either 1^st or 2^nd class. Unfortunately, the machines offer only a few international destinations. Stations also have domestic and international kiosks, so choose the correct one before queuing.

Can Dogs Travel on Romanian Trains?

Dogs can travel on trains in Romania, and there are several ways to buy tickets for a dog. You can purchase dog tickets online, at the kiosk and at the ticket machines. If travelling with a dog on a domestic journey, dogs can only sit in 2^nd class and must follow the CFR rules relating to travelling with dogs.

Transport of dogs is allowed when accompanied by persons over the age of 18. You must have a ticket for the dog. The dog must have a muzzle and be kept on a leash on the floor of the waggon. Dogs are only allowed in compartments and only in 2nd class. Fighting and attack dogs, including pit bulls and crossbreeds, are not allowed.

We found reactions from other passengers to be mixed. Some want to say hello, others are indifferent, and others are not happy that a dog is on the train. In these cases, we just move if there are empty seats. Most conductors are also indifferent once they have checked the tickets.

For CFR night trains, dogs can travel in private compartments, which we have done many times. Henry has his bed on the floor on these. The only exception is if it is run by MAV; dogs are not allowed on sleeping carriages, full stop. We learnt this the hard way and spent 14 hours in discomfort from Budapest to Brasov recently.

To cross the border, you need the correct paperwork: either an EU pet passport (Henry is a proud owner). You can find the latest rules on the EU website.

What To Expect?

The carriages are usually quite old when travelling in Romania, and many have both 1st and 2nd class. First class has more space, and on some routes, it has a restaurant car. Restaurant carts are often nonexistent, so it’s best to take enough refreshments to keep you comfortable. After your tickets are checked, the conductors seem to have good memories and leave you alone.

Toilets are often bad and not for the faint-hearted. Sometimes they overflow, so you need to walk to the next carriage to preserve the dignity of your shoes. They seem to have a button the conductor presses that automatically cleans the toilets periodically. Then miraculously they are clean again. Don’t expect luxury toilet paper, and many times there is none.

Trains in Romania are quite slow compared to many other countries. Apparently plans are afoot to speed up various lines. The slow speed on daytime journeys means you can enjoy the countryside views.

We’ve often experienced delays on the journeys we have taken. You can monitor these on the CFR website, which is a handy feature if you’re waiting or arranging to meet people when you get off.

Night Trains in Romania

Night trains are ideal for us, and we’ve done various journeys with or without a dog. This includes domestic travel and some international routes. Travelling with a dog means we have to book a private room. However, when not with Henry, we’ve opted for the cheaper 6-person couchettes.

You can also travel 2nd class on the night trains. This is not the most comfortable, as I prefer to sleep at night. You can choose options on the CFR website when booking.

What To Pack For Rail Journeys

Rail journeys in Romania tend to be long, and facilities are often limited or nonexistent. These are things I always travel with, including with the dog.

Enough water for the journey, including for the dog.
A few cold beers for the first part of the trip. Warm beer is awful.
Food and snacks.
A coat, as they can get cold, and we’ve had heating failures before.
Muzzle and blanket for the dog.
Hip flask with tuica or palinka for longer trips that may test your patience.
A charging block; plug sockets sometimes don’t work or fail midway.
Toilet paper or wipes: the CFR paper is not great and runs out early on longer journeys.
A sense of humour for when things don’t run smoothly.

Domestic Train Journeys in Romania

Train is a preferred method of travel in Romania, especially in quiet carriages with empty seats. I’ve learnt that heading into Bucharest during rush hour is busy. Also, when people are heading home for Christmas, Easter or the end of the university term, these trains get crowded.

I’ve taken these routes in Romania on various occasions, and I have blog posts about some of them.

Tomis Express: A Direct Journey to Constanta From Brasov Via Bucharest

The Tomis Express is a handy direct train from Brasov to Constanta in Romania. It goes via Bucharest, eliminating the need to change trains. The Tomis Express runs once daily, leaving Brasov at 6:54 am. The journey takes just under 5 hours. Its number is IC 538, and it can be busy at times, especially during the summer months.

I enjoyed my ride on the Tomis Express and its handy nature. The journey passes through some beautiful countryside. They have a restaurant car, which is handy for drinks, including some ice-cold beers. They also serve food onboard, mostly sandwiches.

Ilieni to Brașov

I enjoyed the journey from Ilieni to Brașov. I was in the area after visiting some of the fortified churches. This included Harman Fortified Church. Ilieni was a desolate place in the middle of nowhere, with a basic platform and a timetable stuck to the door.

I didn’t have faith that it would turn up; however, it did. The conductor was fine with paying on board, as there was no ticket office in Ilieni. The ride was good, and the seats were comfortable for a little old thing.

Brașov to Bușteni

I went to Bușteni, a town in the mountains near Brașov, which was a 45-minute trip each way. The journey takes you through the beautiful Prahova Valley, one of the most scenic sections of track in Romania. It was cheap, on time, and had plenty of empty seats.

Brasov to Râșnov

The journey from Brașov to Râșnov is a short local route. Getting tickets was straightforward from the CFR ticket machine at the railway station. The train was old stock, with 2 carriages on both trips and plenty of empty seats.

This was a cheap option and dropped you off in the centre of Râșnov. From the railway station, it takes 10 minutes to reach the funicular to get to Râșnov Citadel. The railway station at Rasnov has minimal facilities for waiting for trains. However, the mountain views are brilliant.

Cluj To Bucharest Sleeper, Then Onwards to Constanta

We really enjoyed the night train journey from Cluj to Bucharest, then onwards to Constanta. We booked a bed each in a 6-person cabin for the first stretch of the railway journey from Cluj to Bucharest. This was one of our only night train trips without the dog. When arriving, we were given fresh bed linen.

This ran smoothly, and the conductor woke us 20 minutes before Bucharest Nord. We then had to return the bedding to retrieve our tickets. We then changed in Bucharest and got an onward train to Constanţa. The section from Cluj to Bucharest took just under 10 hours, and the Bucharest to Constanța stretch took 2 hours and 20 minutes.

Other Journeys

Cluj to Brasov
Brașov to Cluj-Napoca
Brașov to Bucharest
Brașov to Deva
Alba Iulia to Brasov
Bucharest to Brasov
Brașov to Sinaia Day Return
Brașov to Bușteni Day Return
Cluj-Napoca to Sighişoara
Sighişoara to Brașov
Brașov to Sighișoara

International Railway Journeys

There are international routes from Romania, including via Hungary, Moldova and Bulgaria. I’ve enjoyed journeys to Hungary, Austria, and Bulgaria. Most of these have been sleepers, especially those heading west.

My international journeys include some epic multi-country trips.

Brasov to Budapest
Brasov to Gyor
Vienna to Brasov
Brasov to Keszthely
Deva to Vienna
Vienna to Alba Iulia
Maribor in Slovenia to Brasov
Brașov to Ruse in Bulgaria
Veliko Tarnovo to Brașov

Railway Stations

Brașov Railway Station

Brașov railway station is the one I’ve used the most, and I find it very functional. They have various ticket counters and ticket machines. This includes an international desk where the staff speak English.

The station has several platforms and a massive information board to help you find the platform you need.

The station has various shops for supplies and a bar with outside seating overlooking the platforms. I’d avoid the taxi rank here, as the drivers are pests. All the other taxi ranks in the city are fine; the station is not so good.

We usually get an Uber or walk with the dog. It’s roughly a 40-45 minute walk to the central areas. You can also get the bus into central Brasov from here. A handy app is Moovit to find out the buses from the station.

Bucharest Nord

Bucharest Nord is Romania’s biggest and busiest railway station. It’s a hub for both domestic and international journeys. The station has loads of platforms; however, it’s easy to navigate. They have a good selection of ticket offices, including an international desk. There are also various machines to buy tickets without interaction.

It’s a 20-minute walk to central Bucharest if you want to do some sightseeing. At the station, there are many places for refreshments, including bars, fast-food chains and Romanian restaurants. You also have shopping options, including the Carrefour supermarket, to buy supplies for onward travel.

Cluj-Napoca Station

From the central areas and attractions in Cluj, it was a straight walk. This takes about a 15-minute walk, or you can catch a bus. Google Maps is a handy app for choosing which bus to take, and you can tap the bus with your payment card.

There are a few shops along the way where you can pick up baked goods and drinks for the journey. The Gara Cluj-Napoca is a multi-platform station that serves approximately 100 trains per day.

The station has a ticket office for day-of purchases; however, queues can be long during the day, so allow extra time. Outside the station, a steam locomotive is on display, along with a bar for beer and coffee and a waiting area.

Sighişoara Railway Station

The station is undergoing renovations, so it looks like a building site. There are only really 2 active platforms, so it’s easy to find the correct one. The station is a 15-minute walk to Sighisoara citadel and is mostly flat until the last stretch. Taxis are available here to get to the central areas.

Sighisoara has an on-site bar where you can pick up refreshments or wait for the train. There is also a small ticket office. One thing: a few stray dogs loiter around the station.

Busteni Station

Busteni railway station is on the main route connecting Bucharest with Brasov and beyond. The night train from Bucharest to Budapest also stops here. The station has some wonderful views of the countryside, including the mountains.

The major attractions in Buşteni are within walking distance of the railway station. There are also options for bars next to the station.

Sinaia

Sinaia railway station is pleasant and has the usual steam locomotive that many Romanian stations use as decoration. They have a ticket office and ticket machines, which is handy. The station has a place to sit and wait with refreshments called Royal Cafe Sinaia.

They also serve a nice variety of snacks and beers. The railway station is a 20+ minute walk to the key attractions in Sinaia, like the monastery and Peles Castle. It is uphill and can get slippery in winter after it snows.

Deva

Deva Railway Station is an experience – well, it was on my visit. It’s not clear which platforms you need, and even the staff were pretty clueless, even to my wife, a Romanian speaker.

The station toilet was bad; however, the platforms were rather memorable too; you get stuck between two trains, which was nerve-racking.

Constanța

Constanța railway station is the last stop on the Bucharest-Black Sea route. It’s a popular summer holiday route, with holidaymakers heading to the resorts of Mamaia. The station has a good ticket office, bars and shops.

Also out front is a cute steam locomotive, smaller than others I’ve seen in Romania. The railway station is near the bus station and has taxi ranks to reach your final destination.

Alba Iulia Station

The railway station in Alba Iulia was a 15-20-minute walk from the citadel, the main attraction in Alba Iulia. It was a pleasant station to wait for onward travel, with good facilities. We brought a picnic from the Penny supermarket at the front and enjoyed some beers on the journey.

Is Train Travel in Romania Worth It?

Train travel is a fantastic way to travel, and in Romania it is no different. Journeys are long, and the trains are slow. However, I find this relaxing. Also, it’s the easiest way to travel with a dog, so it’s my default option.

The scenery of the Romanian countryside is wonderful to see when travelling.