Train Travel in Croatia, Including Zagreb & Split Trains
For those who enjoy travelling by rail, train travel is an excellent, albeit slow, option in Croatia. Many of the major cities and small villages are on the railway network, with some notable exceptions.
For us, travelling by train in Croatia with a dog has been pretty straightforward, though there have been some minor inconveniences. However, trains are the only viable way to use public transport in the country, as dog-unfriendly companies like Arriva run coaches.
Key Places With A Railway Station in Croatia
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There are many places to visit in Croatia. These are cities with major railway stations.
International Railway Routes into Croatia
We’ve travelled into Croatia on a few international routes. This includes the Ljubljana-to-Rijeka train for passengers from Slovenia. Ljubljana is a major crossroads of the railway network, so you can effectively reach Croatia from northeastern Italy and Austria in a day.
Omio.com is a handy resource for those travelling without a pet and also has options to reach the country from abroad.
Another route we have taken is the Budapest-to-Zagreb train, which is handy for travelling from Hungary to Croatia. Zagreb is a central hub; thus, there are many onward trains. However, we found this arrives late; thus, it’s best to stay overnight before travelling onwards.
Both used to have border checks; however, since they joined Schengen, these checks are no longer in place. As a bonus, this has reduced the journey time from both Hungary and Slovenia.
To purchase international tickets, you need to head to the international ticket office in a major station. The ticket offices in Zagreb and Rijeka are very good, in my experience.
Domestic Train Timetables & Booking Tickets
The best way to book trains or find timetables for routes inside Croatia is on the HŽPP website. The site is clunky but functional. Sadly, you cannot buy dog tickets on the website.
We found that many smaller stations don’t have open ticket offices; thus, the conductors are great at accepting cash payments on board.
Omio.com is a handy resource for those travelling without a pet and also has options to reach the country from abroad.
Dog Tickets and Dog Friendly Rules
Croatian railways have a set of rules to follow when booking tickets and travelling with dogs. We found that the railway staff are pretty chilled and rarely mention the dog, let alone know about the dog rules. We’ve often been looked at very strangely when producing a dog ticket on the train. The conductors have frequently asked where the third person is; then we point at Henry.
You can find the full set of rules on the HZPP website. These include different rules for smaller and larger dogs. Larger dogs over 30cm tall require a ticket, a short lead and a muzzle. Thus, be prepared and, if required, get your dog comfortable wearing one.
Another rule is to show a veterinary certificate/pet passport when booking the dog ticket. In my experience, they have never asked for this, even after handing over the book when buying a ticket.
Some railway stations don’t have ticket offices; thus, you might need to pay for the dog on board. Thus, carry cash with you; dog fares are 50% of the adult fare.
WARNING – Croatian trains can get very hot, and the bathroom taps don’t work, so take enough water for your dog’s journey.
Is It Worth Using Interrail in Croatia?
Interrail is about flexibility as well as the potential to save money. We have travelled to Croatia as part of a longer Interrail adventure. The trains are pretty cheap inside Croatia; thus, they are not good value unless travelling from much further away.
For example, the Zagreb-to-Split route, one of the most popular, costs €15.82. This is much cheaper than the equivalent single day to get value out of an Interrail pass.
Interrail is great for reaching destinations inside Croatia from abroad. It saves a lot of hassle getting tickets for indirect routes when you change trains.
Journeys We Have Enjoyed on the Croatian Trains
These are the routes we have used internationally to Croatia and domestically by train. All journeys involved travelling with a dog, along with some details of how the trips went.
Karlovac to Osijek Changing in Zagreb
This was a summer trip to head east and avoid peak tourist season. Our route took a local commuter train into Zagreb, then changed onto the comfortable 1881, which runs from Split to Zagreb and onwards to Osijek.
This was fully booked when searching for tickets from Karlovac. However, on further research, we found it to be empty from Zagreb onwards. Thus, we took an earlier train to the capital and waited for the Split-to-Zagreb passengers to get off.
We purchased our tickets online with the caveat that we would pay to have the dog on board. For the entire journey, adult tickets were roughly 18 euros, and the dog’s ticket was half that. Overall, this was a very pleasant journey, and as a bonus, there were lots of sunflower fields in bloom throughout the countryside on the route.
Rijeka to Karlovac
As part of a longer journey from Mali Losinj on the ferry, we took the train from Rijeka to Karlovac. This was a small, old train on the 4001 route. The journey had a few delays, and it was very hot inside, so I was glad we took lots of water for Henry and us.
The journey takes just over 3.5 hours theoretically, but there were a few delays. Getting tickets for the dog and us at Rijeka railway station was straightforward. An adult fare costs €6.95 and half that for a dog.
Ptuj in Slovenia to Rijeka in Croatia
The journey from Ptuj to Rijeka meant a very early start, as there are limited cross-border trains. Our railway journey with the dog involved 2 changes: one in Pragersko and one in Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital.
Getting tickets for this route meant buying two tickets, as we couldn’t get a ticket for the entire journey at Ptuj railway station. We got our tickets to Ljubljana at the Ptuj ticket office. However, we went to the international ticket desk in the capital to get the cross-border tickets for the dog and us. The journey ran smoothly with beers and pastries in Ljubljana and only minor delays, so we reached Rijeka only 10 minutes late. Other Options…
Rijeka to Lake Bled in Slovenia
The journey from Rijeka in Croatia to the area near Lake Bled in Slovenia was a nice day of travel. Purchasing tickets required some inconvenience. At Rijeka Railway Station, we could purchase tickets, including for the dogs, all the way to Ljubljana.
From Ljubljana, we needed to purchase tickets to the Lake Bled area onwards. This was a pleasant journey that ran like clockwork, and the train was comfortable. Other Options…
Trieste in Italy To Rijeka in Croatia
The train from Trieste, Italy, to Rijeka again underscored the need to carry cash in this region. When we went to purchase tickets from Trieste, they could only sell us part of the trip. Thus, we purchased the ticket from Trieste to Pivka in Slovenia. The journey was pleasant, and there was a sizeable gap between trains, so I enjoyed a meal out near the railway station.
The ticket machines at Pivka station weren’t working, and the ticket office wasn’t open, so we just jumped on board. When we met the conductor, he would only accept cash and could only sell us tickets to the border. We paid cash and headed on our merry way. After the border, we had to purchase tickets from the conductor to Rijeka. Again, this was a cash-only affair. The journey to get back to the Adriatic coast was pleasant. Other Options…
Rijeka to Fuzine
The trip from Rijeka to Fuzine is pretty straightforward and not long. The route offers splendid window views, including coastal ones. This journey takes 1.5 hours and is pleasant. Getting tickets for the dog and us was easy at Rijeka station. The station at Fuzine is a bit of a trek into the town; however, it’s lovely countryside.
From Keszthely in Hungary to Zagreb
First, we had 11 minutes from Keszthely to Balatonszentgyörgy on the small branch line. We purchased tickets for this short journey at Keszthely station, as they couldn’t sell us tickets for the entire journey. This was delayed, and we were grateful we were planning on a liquid snack at the station.
We learnt they don’t sell international tickets at Keszthely or Balatonszentgyörgy railway stations. Thus, we had to find somewhere online to buy or hop on board, hoping we could purchase it there. Anyway, after failed attempts on the OBB and DB apps, the Hungarian Railways website delivered. Have your translator ready for the billing address country drop-down if you don’t read Hungarian.
The train from Balatonszentgyörgy to Zagreb was rammed full; thus, with the dog, we sat in the corridor. Luckily, at Nagykanizsa, we got an entire room for the dog and us. The views out the window from the border were fantastic, as they coincided with golden hour and sunset.
Split to Zagreb
After enjoying a few weeks in Split, we took the daytime train to Zagreb. This is a slower train that passes through some beautiful countryside, including, at the time, snow-covered mountains.
We purchased all tickets, including the dogs’, at Split railway station without issue. The train was quiet, and the journey was pleasant. It didn’t have refreshments, so another case of bringing all you need for the full journey. This trip took 6 hours and 40 minutes and cost just over 15 euros. For part of the journey, they parked up for 25 minutes, which was great, as it meant walking Henry along the platforms for a comfort break.
Zagreb to Split in The Winter
Getting a train from Zagreb to Split is the only viable way when travelling with a dog. This cost roughly £25 for two adults and a dog for the 6-hour journey. It was pretty slow and less comfortable than the older trains we prefer. It was all open-plan carriages; thus, Henry got more fuss travelling than when we travel in a 6-seat room.
The journey was pleasant, and the views before it got dark were stunning. There were no refreshments available on board; thus, make sure you bring enough to drink for the entire 6 hours. I’d account for 7, as this one was slightly late. We did this journey during the winter. However, they offer more options and nicer trains, including sleeping accommodations during peak summer months. Other Options…
Pecs in Hungary to Zagreb
Our rail journey from Pecs in Hungary to Zagreb was pleasant. We were travelling using an Interrail pass; thus, we had to purchase reservations at Pecs Railway Station. We did this in advance. The first part of the journey followed the Hungary/Croatia border. This was a slow train, and we got off at Gyékényes. Gyékényes is a small village on the main Budapest-to-Zagreb railway line. Unfortunately, our hour-long wait coincided with the local bar being closed and no shops near the station.
After waiting a while and walking the dog, the next train to Zagreb arrived. This trip was before Croatia joined Schengen, and the border police did their thing. This won’t happen anymore on this route because they joined Schengen. We managed to secure an entire room, so no distractions for Henry all the way to the Croatian capital while watching a pleasant sunset. Other Travel Options…
Osijek to Pecs in Hungary Via Beli Manastir
To leave Croatia and travel into Hungary, we took the quickest route. This was from Osijek to Pecs via Beli Manastir. To purchase tickets for this journey, you need to visit a ticket office or purchase them on the train, as they are not available online for the entire journey.
The train journey to Beli Manastir was aboard an interesting locomotive, passing through some beautiful countryside. Once we arrived, the onward train was waiting on the other platform. Looking at the timetables, most changes here are longer, nearly two hours. The train from Beli Manastir across the border was a cute one-carriage affair known as a Bizmot. This was a pleasant ride, and it was nice to travel in a new type of carriage.
Other Trips in Croatia
- Fuzine to Karlovac
- Karlovac to Ljubljana
- Ogulin to Rijeka
- Zagreb to Ogulin
- Zagreb to Maribor
Are Trains in Croatia Worthwhile?
If you are travelling using public transport with a dog, trains are the only viable option in Croatia, so it’s well worth it. They are mostly old and slow; however, you get to see some of the peasant Croatian countryside. I find travelling by rail relaxing and enjoyable, but if you don’t, the long, slow journeys might not be for you. There are alternatives available on the Omio.com website.
We’ve rarely seen refreshments available on board, which is a shame, so you need to be organised and carry what you need. Interactions with railway staff on board have always been pleasant.